Before we enter the whirlwind that is the AW23 New York, Paris, London, and Milan circuit, Copenhagen Fashion Week kicked off the womenswear season with a focus on slow, responsible fashion. Last week, CPHFW launched its first-ever sustainability-focused strategy, where each showing brand had to meet 18 eco-conscious requirements – from ensuring shows are zero waste to using at least 50 per cent preferred materials – leading to an entire week packed with change-making collections.

As always, Peter Lundvald Neilsen’s label PLN traded in Nordic-wear for a darker, punk aesthetic, with two-piece leather lingerie sets, mini camouflage skirts – made from 100 per cent recylced materials – and ultra-long eyelash extensions all on the line-up. Meanwhile, Latimmier opted for a new take on tailoring, with founder Ervin Latimer subverting classic tailoring with swirling artwork and long shirts bearing garters and cock ring ties, as part of an intimate show dedicated to young designers across the world. 

Like every fashion week, Copenhagen saw a few major fashion moments, from Real Housewives of Beverly Hills star Lisa Rinna stomping down the runway in nothing but a black bodysuit and leopard coat at Rotate (we wouldn’t have expected anything less from her), to (Di)vision’s models dragging guests’ tablecloths across the floor, Munthe unveiling a photo-ready mirrored runway, and the fashion crowd piling on to hot Barbie pink Ganni coaches.

Elsewhere, Julie Lundgaard Christophersen dedicated her whimsical collection to the founder’s experiences of overcoming body shame and learning to love her body – leading the way for a number of designers who addressed Copenhagen’s lack of body inclusivity over the past few seasons by featuring curve models in their collections. As the week comes to a close, we’ve rounded up seven Scandi shows you need to know about from AW23. Scroll below to find out more.

(DI)VISION

Clattering cutlery, overflowing wine glasses, melted-down candles, and dragging tablecloths – just a few Insta-worthy moments (Di)vision’s AW23 show brought to the table. Recreating scenes leftover from a party, this season’s collection – titled Dressed for Disaster – saw a cast of models walk the runway in Gen Z’s grungy after-party uniform while Linkin Park and Limp Bizkit covers blared in the background. Based around a DIY, “create from what already is” mindset, the label sent low-waisted skirts with matching leg warmers, graphic baby tees, slouchy hoodies, exposed thongs, zip-off trousers, and leather moto jackets down the runway, all created from irregular, deadstock materials and topped off with Starface pimple patches, under eye glitter, and pink hair streaks. It’s giving Avril Lavigne-meets-Euphoria, and we’re here for it.

A. ROEGE HOVE 

Knitwear brand A. Roege Hove kicked off its show with a special moment, reminiscent of Bella Hadid’s live, spray-on dress at Coperni’s SS23 show. This time around, a model appeared in underwear and knee-high boots on the dark runway, before two team members draped her in two long, sheer knit pieces to create a dress and jacket in real time. Unlike Coperni’s scientific focus, however, the display encouraged attendees to pay close attention to the materials and craftsmanship throughout the collection – which continued on to dress knits of different textures, shapes, and patterns layered on its models. “I hope it will add to the understanding of the material,” Amalie Røge Hove, the brand’s designer, told Vogue. “I think it’s (about) getting this sense (that) you feel like you touched a knit at the show, even though you didn’t.” 

PLN 

After dreaming up a post-apocalyptic fantasy world for its debut runway show last summer, Peter Lundvald Neilsen’s PLN invited guests into a smoky venue to view its punky AW23 collection. Here, taking its fantastical designs to the next level, models trudged through the space wearing dark, earthy ensembles, slouching with deconstructed leather, frayed denim, with hand-dyed hair details snaking around the body. Meanwhile, Neilsen – who cut his teeth at Balenciaga and Ottolinger, before launching his own label – leaned into dark, sexy finishing touches to compliment the looks, from long, draping eyelashes and stringy harnesses, to thick leather, BDSM-esque chokers.

HOLZWEILER 

Despite fashion week’s usual jam-packed schedule, Holzweiler offered up a moment of calm for its guests, inviting them inside its soothing, deep sea-meets-Scandinavian-winter world. Circling an icy “coral reef”, models wrapped-up in layers of draped knitwear, pastel yellow and blue puffers, dragging scarves, and zip-on balaclavas. Underneath – inspired by a visit to Denmark’s National Aquarium – models wore floating yellow dresses and airy knits to represent floating jellyfish and seaweed, as part of a collection that screamed that oceancore could surely be coming. 

JULIE LUNDGAARD CHRISTOPHERSEN

Despite the fact the past few seasons saw Copenhagen Fashion Week backtrack a little in terms progress towards body inclusivity, this year seems to be making some positive changes. In fact, emerging designer Julie Lungaard Christophersen modelled her all-white collection around feelings of anxiety and depression following her own personal experiences of body shame. “As someone who does not have a standard body, I carry around a lot of social shame,” the designer told Alpha Fashion. “I feel I have to hide my body before I can leave my home, and there are social situations where I do not feel comfortable.” By using over-the-top hoop skirts, drapery, padding, ruching, and tear-stained make-up to represent reclaiming these feelings, Christophersen hopes to convey the joy and love she’s learned to feel towards her body.

LATIMMIER

Designer Ervin Latimer wasn’t sure if he’d be able to make this season happen due to burnout and limited resources. Because of this, he dedicated his intimate, 11-look AW23 collection to young designers across the world who might be facing similar struggles in an emotional speech once his guests took their seats. “I hear you. I see you. And this one is for you particularly,” he shouted out to fellow emerging designers. The offering, which started off with a white shirt paired with garters and a cock ring (casual), saw chunky jumpers, long shirts, and crocheted tops, and suiting swiped with a swirling pattern designed by Swiss-Haitian artist Sasha Huber. Elsewhere, models held up three-dimensional sculptures of the pattern, further highlighting his subversive take on tailoring. 

GANNI

For Ganni’s AW23 show – titled BUTTERFLIES! – invitees hopped aboard a bright pink Ganni bus for a journey to the ARKEN Museum of Modern Art, just 30 minutes outside of Copenhagen. Here, surrounded by an explosion of yellow confetti, the label unveiled a brand new butterfly logo to signify its transformation from little-known Danish label to global it-girl obsession. Besides hanging from low-strung, golden belly chains, being imprinted onto denim separates, and appearing on stitched puffer sets made in collaboration with Icelandic outerwear brand 66°North, the new logo was stamped onto the brand’s new Bou bags and cleated boots – made entirely from Ohoskin, a leather-alternative made from byproducts of oranges and cacti farming and recycled plastics. Following the collection, artist and friend of the brand Esben Weile Kjær will showcase an exhibition titled “BUTTERFLY!” at the same museum.